Ingredient Spotlight: Peptides

Ingredient Spotlight · Cosmetic Active

The Peptides

The skin's messengers. Protein fragments from elastin, milk, soy, hibiscus or lupine, peptides speak the language of cells to smooth, firm and restructure.

The portrait of a family of actives that revolutionized anti-aging.

Anti-WrinkleFirmingRestructuringSmoothingTightening

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Common name: Peptides, hydrolyzed proteins, oligopeptides.
INCI name: Hydrolyzed Elastin; Hydrolyzed Milk Protein; Hydrolyzed Soy Protein; Hydrolyzed Lupine Protein; Hydrolyzed Sweet Almond Protein; Moringa Oleifera Seed Extract; hibiscus extracts.
Family, type: Short chains of amino acids (2 to 50); signaling and structuring actives.
Found in nature: In all living proteins: the skin's elastin and collagen, milk caseins, seed storage proteins (soy, lupine, almond, moringa, hibiscus).
How they're obtained: Enzymatic or biotechnological hydrolysis of the source protein, which cuts it into fragments small enough to penetrate the epidermis.

Typical concentration: 0.5% to 5% hydrolyzed proteins; signal peptides work at much lower doses.
Organoleptic properties: Appearance: amber liquids or beige powders; Scent: neutral to slightly proteinaceous.
Physical characteristics: Water-soluble; the shorter the chain, the deeper it penetrates; peptides are either signal (they stimulate collagen synthesis), carrier, or film-forming (instant tightening effect)^1,2.
Benefits: Anti-wrinkle, firming, restructuring, smoothing, tightening, hydrating.
Cosmetic indications: Skin marked by wrinkles, loss of firmness or elasticity; eye area; mature skin. All skin types.

Did you know?A little history

It all began in 1973, when American researchers isolated a tripeptide capable of stimulating wound healing.

Twenty years later, it was shown that a collagen fragment applied to the skin prompts fibroblasts to make more: the skin mistakes the fragment for a sign of breakdown and launches repair. The "signal" peptide concept was born, and with it a new generation of anti-aging treatments¹.

Yon-Ka has long used peptides in the Elastine line, where elastin and milk peptides smooth wrinkles, and later in Advanced Optimizer with hibiscus and lupine peptides.

General useHow a peptide works

A whole protein, like collagen or elastin, is too large to cross the skin. Cut into peptides, it becomes small enough to penetrate and, above all, it takes on a new role: that of a message.

Some peptides tell fibroblasts to produce collagen; others relax the micro-contractions behind expression lines; still others form an instant tightening film on the surface^1,2.

Plant or animal peptides? At Yon-Ka, the vast majority are plant-derived (soy, lupine, hibiscus, almond, moringa). The elastin and milk peptides in the Elastine line are of animal origin, with no animal testing.

Cosmetic useTheir properties on skin

Anti-wrinkleSignal peptides stimulate collagen and elastin synthesis: wrinkles gradually fill in¹.
FirmingHibiscus and lupine peptides restore tone and density to slackened tissue.
TighteningSweet almond and soy proteins form a smoothing film with an instant lifting effect.
RestructuringBeech bud and soy peptides support the architecture of the epidermis.
HydratingRich in hygroscopic amino acids, they hold water in the outer layer of skin.
ProtectiveMoringa peptides form a shield against pollution particles.

FormulationThe peptides used at Yon-Ka

Each peptide source has its specialty. Here are the ones you'll find in our ingredient lists.

Elastin and milk peptides

Hydrolyzed Elastin + Hydrolyzed Milk Protein

The anti-wrinkle, smoothing duo of the Elastine line.

Elastine Jour · Elastine Nuit

Hibiscus and white lupine peptides

Hibiscus peptides / Hydrolyzed Lupine Protein

Firming and tightening, at the heart of the Advanced Optimizer firming line and the Excellence Code eye contour.

Advanced Optimizer Serum · Advanced Optimizer Gel Lift · Advanced Optimizer Creme · Le Contour – Excellence Code

Soy, sweet almond and moringa peptides

Hydrolyzed Soy Protein / Hydrolyzed Sweet Almond Protein / Moringa Oleifera Seed Extract

Restructuring (soy), tightening (almond) and anti-pollution (moringa).

Elixir Vital · Alpha-Fluid · Alpha-Contour · Vital Defense

Beech bud peptides have their own dedicated spotlight.

In cosmeticsUses

Anti-wrinkle day and night creams;
Firming serums and gels with a lifting effect;
Smoothing eye care;
Anti-pollution care;
Renewing fluids, to restructure after exfoliation.

The Yon-Ka approach

Peptides are our bridge between the plant and biotechnology: plant proteins, precisely cut, paired with whole extracts like horsetail or rosehip. The message is targeted, the formula stays natural.

The science of the active, the sensoriality of the plant.

How to useAdding them to your ritual

In the morning, for a lifting effect
Advanced Optimizer Gel Lift on cleansed skin, from the neck up to the forehead, before your cream.
In the evening, to rebuild
Advanced Optimizer Serum, then Elastine Nuit: the peptides work while you sleep.
Over time
Signal peptides work in depth: allow 4 to 8 weeks for visible, lasting results.

Good to knowStorage and precautions

Peptides are stable in our formulas. Close your bottles tightly and respect the period-after-opening.

Very well tolerated, with no known contraindications for topical use, including during pregnancy. Soy, almond, lupine and milk peptides come from potentially allergenic sources; in hydrolyzed form the risk is very low, but if you have a confirmed food allergy, patch test behind the ear first or ask your doctor.

Go furtherSources

Gorouhi F., Maibach H.I. Role of topical peptides in preventing or treating aged skin. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2009; 31(5): 327-345. PubMed
Schagen S.K. Topical Peptide Treatments with Effective Anti-Aging Results. Cosmetics, 2017; 4(2): 16. mdpi.com
COSMILE Europe (Cosmetics Europe), cosmetic ingredient database. cosmileeurope.eu

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