Ingredient Spotlight: Vitamin C

Ingredient Spotlight · Cosmetic Active

The Vitamin C

The ultimate glow ingredient. Antioxidant, brightening and a collagen ally, vitamin C revives tired-looking skin and protects it from everyday aggressors.

The portrait of a molecule as precious on your plate as it is in your beauty ritual.

AntioxidantGlowDark Spot CareAnti-AgingAnti-Pollution
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Common name
Vitamin C, ascorbic acid.
INCI name
Ascorbic Acid (pure, water-soluble form). Stabilized derivatives used at Yon-Ka: Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate and Ascorbyl Palmitate (oil-soluble forms).
Family, type
Water-soluble vitamin; a benchmark antioxidant. A regulated vitamin (nutrition and health claims are strictly framed).
Found in nature
Acerola, black currant, guava, kiwi, citrus fruits (orange, grapefruit, lemon), bell pepper, parsley, rosehip, pomegranate.
How it's obtained
Synthesized from glucose or produced through biotechnological fermentation, then purified. In cosmetics it is most often esterified (bound to fatty acids) to stay stable and active by the time it reaches your skin.
Typical concentration
From under 1% (formula antioxidant) up to 20% in a concentrated serum.
Organoleptic properties
Appearance: white to slightly yellow crystalline powder; Odor: neutral; Taste: tart. The oil-soluble esters appear as a clear oil.
Physical characteristics
The pure water-soluble form is highly sensitive to light, air, water and heat; optimal pH is acidic (under 3.5); penetrates poorly and can be irritating. Esterified forms: oil-soluble, stable, better penetration, better tolerated1,2.
Benefits
Antioxidant and free-radical scavenger, brightening, evens skin tone, supports dark spot care, boosts collagen, protects keratinocyte DNA, regenerating1,3.
Cosmetic indications
All skin types, especially dull, tired skin exposed to pollution, marked by dark spots or early signs of aging. Sensitive skin: choose stabilized forms.

Did you know?A little history

For centuries, sailors dreaded scurvy without knowing its cause.

It wasn't until 1747 that a Scottish physician, James Lind, proved that citrus fruits cured the disease, and 1932 before the molecule responsible was isolated by Hungarian researcher Albert Szent-Györgyi, who won the Nobel Prize five years later. Its name, "ascorbic acid," literally means "against scurvy."

Unlike most mammals, our bodies can't manufacture it. We have to source it every day from our diet... and, to give our skin the best of it, apply it directly.

General useVitamin C in everyday life

In the body, vitamin C is everywhere. It helps build collagen, the protein that gives skin, bones and blood vessels their strength. It supports immune defenses, improves the absorption of plant-based iron, and neutralizes free radicals generated by stress, fatigue or pollution1.

Because it's water-soluble, it isn't stored: any excess is eliminated, which is why a regular intake matters. An orange, a kiwi and a handful of black currants easily cover a typical daily need. It's fragile and doesn't like prolonged cooking: favor raw or lightly cooked fruit and vegetables.

A small nuance: the vitamin C you swallow benefits your vital organs first. Skin only receives a limited share. That's why topical application remains the most direct way to give your skin the benefit of it1.

Cosmetic useIts properties on skin

  • AntioxidantIt captures free radicals generated by UV, pollution and blue light, and regenerates vitamin E to form a complete protective shield alongside it1,6.
  • Evens tone, dark spot careBy modulating the activity of tyrosinase, the enzyme behind melanin production, it helps prevent the appearance of new dark spots while progressively fading existing ones and marks left by blemishes2,5.
  • BrighteningBy slowing skin oxidation, it restores clarity and radiance to the complexion, from the first weeks of use.
  • Anti-agingAn essential cofactor for collagen synthesis, it helps skin maintain its density and firmness while smoothing fine lines1,3.
  • ProtectiveApplied in the morning under sun protection, it reinforces its action against UV-induced damage2,3. It never replaces it.
  • SoothingIts stabilized, gentler forms help calm the diffuse redness of reactive skin2.

FormulationThe forms of vitamin C used at Yon-Ka

Not all vitamin C is equal. The pure form, ascorbic acid, is unstable in light, heat and water; it penetrates poorly and can be harsh on skin1,5. That's why cosmetic science developed stabilized derivatives, whose efficacy varies by form5. Here are the ones we've chosen, and which products you'll find them in.

Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate

Oil-soluble · Isopalmitic acid esterOur reference form

A next-generation "oil-based" vitamin C: the molecule is shielded by four fatty acid chains, which keeps it stable in formula and non-acidic on skin. Once absorbed, it's converted back into active vitamin C by skin enzymes2. Studies show improved penetration, demonstrated antioxidant and anti-pigmentation action, and excellent tolerance, including on sensitive skin2,3,4,5. This is the form dosed at 20% in our Vitamin C Serum.

Hero ingredient: Vitamin C Serum 20%
Antioxidant support (vitamins A, C, E): Vital Defense · Creme 93 · Men's Nutri-Creme · Hydra N°1 Serum
Also found in: Hydra N°1 Creme · Hydra N°1 Fluid · Hydra N°1 Masque · Pamplemousse PNG · Pamplemousse PS · Elastine Jour · Elastine Nuit · Nude Perfect Fluide · Nutri Defense Creme · Men's Age Defense · Creme Mains · Le Masque – Excellence Code

Ascorbyl Palmitate

Oil-soluble · Palmitic acid ester

An ester of vitamin C and palmitic acid, soluble in oils. More stable than ascorbic acid, it's used at low dosage to protect the formula's plant oils from oxidation and provide antioxidant support to skin5,6.

Found in: After-Sun Milk · Tan Extender · Le Contour – Excellence Code

Ascorbic Acid

Water-soluble · Pure form

Vitamin C as it occurs in fruit. We use it at low concentration, in the water phase, as a natural formula antioxidant: it protects plant extracts and formula oils against oxidation6.

Found in: Hydra N°1 Masque · Booster Hydra+ · Men's Age Defense

What about plant-derived vitamin C? Our firming treatments Advanced Optimizer Serum and Advanced Optimizer Creme contain a rosehip (Rosa canina) extract standardized for vitamin C — meaning it's guaranteed a measured, consistent level of natural vitamin C — while the grapefruit and citrus extracts in our glow creams provide it naturally.

In cosmeticsUses

  • Concentrated serums (10–20%): the fast track to visible glow and dark spot results;
  • Day creams with antioxidant and anti-pollution action;
  • Firming treatments (serums and firming creams);
  • Glow creams with citrus;
  • Men's care for an energizing boost;
  • Sun and after-sun care, as antioxidant protection for oils.

The Yon-Ka approach

True to our phyto-aromatic heritage, we pair vitamin C — in its different forms — with plant extracts that extend and complete its action: native turmeric and pomegranate cells alongside high-concentration stabilized vitamin C, rosehip standardized for vitamin C in our firming treatments, grapefruit and citrus essential oils in our glow creams. This pairing runs through a large share of our formulas, well beyond a single treatment. And because vitamin C and vitamin E regenerate one another6, they're almost always found together in our formulas.

The science of the active, the sensoriality of the plant.

How to useAdding it to your ritual

  1. In the morning, on cleansed skin
    Mist with Yon-Ka Lotion, then apply the vitamin C treatment that fits your ritual — concentrated serum, antioxidant cream or glow cream — over your face and neck.
  2. Seal and protect
    Follow with your day cream, then sun protection: the vitamin C + SPF duo is the most effective combination against premature aging.
  3. At night, alternating
    Use your vitamin C treatment alone or alternate it with a renewing active (fruit acids, retinol-like), rather than layering them at the same time.
  4. Sensitive skin?
    Start with one application every other night, then gradually increase based on your skin's tolerance.

Reminder: vitamin C, in one form or another, is part of a large share of our treatments — not just one dedicated serum.

Good to knowHow to store it

Pure vitamin C is a living active ingredient: it oxidizes with air and light, and a formula that turns noticeably dark orange has lost potency. Esterified forms like ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate are far more stable4. In every case, keep your bottle tightly closed, away from light, heat and humidity, and follow the period-after-opening guidance on the packaging.

SafetyContraindications, precautions

Vitamin C is well tolerated by the vast majority of skin types and has no known contraindication for topical use, including during pregnancy and breastfeeding. At high concentrations of the pure form, mild tingling or temporary redness may occur on application: it fades within minutes. Oil-soluble, non-acidic esters don't carry this risk2,5.

On very reactive skin, patch test behind the ear first, and avoid the immediate eye area with pure formulas. As with any facial treatment, don't apply to broken skin. If in doubt, ask your Yon-Ka esthetician or healthcare professional for advice.

Go furtherSources

  1. Pullar J.M., Carr A.C., Vissers M.C.M. The Roles of Vitamin C in Skin Health. Nutrients, 2017; 9(8): 866. doi.org/10.3390/nu9080866
  2. Ochiai Y. et al. A new lipophilic pro-vitamin C, tetra-isopalmitoyl ascorbic acid (VC-IP), prevents UV-induced skin pigmentation through its anti-oxidative properties. Journal of Dermatological Science, 2006; 44(1): 37-44. pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/16935471
  3. Xiao L. et al. Cytoprotective effects of the lipoidic-liquiform pro-vitamin C tetra-isopalmitoyl-ascorbate (VC-IP) against ultraviolet-A ray-induced injuries in human skin cells together with collagen retention, MMP inhibition and p53 gene repression. Journal of Cellular Biochemistry, 2009; 106(4): 589-598. pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/19165821
  4. Maia Campos P.M.B.G. et al. Application of tetra-isopalmitoyl ascorbic acid in cosmetic formulations: stability studies and in vivo efficacy. European Journal of Pharmaceutics and Biopharmaceutics, 2012; 82(3): 580-586. pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/22974986
  5. Clinical Applications of Vitamin C in Dermatology: A Systematic Review. Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology, 2025. jcadonline.com
  6. COSMILE Europe (Cosmetics Europe), ingredient profile Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate. cosmileeurope.eu
Selection

Our vitamin C treatments

The Yon-Ka formulas where vitamin C plays a leading role.

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