Ingredient Spotlight: Retinol-Like

Ingredient Spotlight · Biomimetic Active

The Retinol-Like

The retinol effect, without the retinoid. Biomimetic microalgae and a mastic tree extract reproduce the action of retinol, 100% of natural origin and without the usual irritation.

The portrait of a next-generation active, at the heart of the Bi-Serum.

Anti-WrinkleRenewingNon-IrritatingBiomimeticNatural Origin
Discover the Bi-Serum
Common name
Retinol-like, plant-based retinol alternative, biomimetic retinoid.
INCI name
Complex based on a biomimetic microalga and Pistacia Lentiscus (Mastic) Gum / Extract.
Family, type
Plant and marine biotech active; gentle alternative to classic retinoids.
Found in nature
The microalga is grown in a bioreactor; the mastic tree (Pistacia lentiscus) is a Mediterranean shrub whose resin, mastic, has been harvested since antiquity on the Greek island of Chios.
How it's obtained
Controlled biotech cultivation of the microalga, extraction of mastic resin, then combination of the two into a biomimetic complex.
Typical concentration
1% to 5% of the complex.
Organoleptic properties
Appearance: translucent to slightly opalescent liquid; Scent: neutral to slightly resinous.
Physical characteristics
Water-soluble; "biomimetic" means the complex mimics retinol's biological activity on skin renewal genes, without going through the retinoid receptor pathway responsible for irritation.
Benefits
Renewing, smoothing, anti-wrinkle, evening, with no irritation or photosensitization.
Cosmetic indications
Skin marked by wrinkles and thickened texture, including sensitive skin or skin that doesn't tolerate classic retinol.

Did you know?A little history

Retinol has been the most studied anti-aging active since the 1970s, but its effectiveness comes at a price: irritation, sun sensitivity, and incompatibility with pregnancy.

In the 2010s, biotech research took on a challenge: reproducing retinol's effect on skin gene expression without its drawbacks. Microalgae grown in bioreactors, able to produce targeted signal molecules, opened the way to these so-called "biomimetic" alternatives.

Yon-Ka launched its Bi-Serum Retinol-Like to offer this action 100% of natural origin, with no compromise on comfort.

General useHow retinol-like works

Classic retinol works by binding to specific nuclear receptors that activate skin renewal genes, a powerful mechanism that often triggers an irritating adjustment phase. Retinol-like actives aim to activate similar pathways through other, biomimetic mechanisms that are considered better tolerated.

"Bi-Serum": why two phases? The Yon-Ka Bi-Serum combines separate water and oil phases, mixed at the moment of application to ensure optimal stability for each active.

Cosmetic useIts properties on skin

  • RenewingIt stimulates epidermal cell renewal, like a retinoid.
  • SmoothingSkin texture refines and surface fine lines soften.
  • Anti-wrinkleUsed as a course, it softens established wrinkles and restores firmness.
  • EveningIt evens skin tone and fades dark spots.
  • Non-irritatingDesigned not to trigger the adjustment phase typical of classic retinol.
  • No photosensitizationIt doesn't make skin more sensitive to the sun, unlike classic retinoids.

FormulationRetinol-like at Yon-Ka

Microalgae + mastic complex

Biomimetic microalga + Pistacia Lentiscus (Mastic)

The signature active of the Bi-Serum, our most advanced anti-aging treatment, 100% of natural origin, for a "retinol" effect without a retinoid.

Bi-Serum Retinol-Like · Bi-Serum Retinol-Like Travel Size

Our classic vitamin A, retinyl palmitate, has its own dedicated spotlight, for treatments that favor a gradual approach.

In cosmeticsUses

  • Next-generation anti-aging serums;
  • A retinol alternative for sensitive or intolerant skin;
  • Renewing care with no adjustment phase.

The Yon-Ka approach

We believe in biomimetic innovation rather than raw concentration. The Bi-Serum delivers the anti-aging results sought by customers used to retinol, without the trade-offs of irritation or photosensitivity.

The science of the active, the sensoriality of the plant.

How to useAdding it to your ritual

  1. In the evening
    Bi-Serum on cleansed skin, after mixing the two phases in the bottle.
  2. From day one
    Unlike classic retinol, no gradual adjustment period is needed: daily use is possible from the start, depending on individual tolerance.
  3. In the morning
    SPF 50+ Mineral Fluid is still recommended in any anti-aging routine.

Good to knowStorage and precautions

The two-phase format is mixed just before application; follow the instructions on the bottle.

Well tolerated, including by skin usually sensitive to retinol. As with any active anti-aging treatment, ask your healthcare professional if you are pregnant or breastfeeding.

Go furtherSources

  1. Mukherjee S. et al. Retinoids in the treatment of skin aging: an overview of clinical efficacy and safety. Clinical Interventions in Aging, 2006; 1(4): 327-348. PubMed
  2. COSMILE Europe (Cosmetics Europe), cosmetic ingredient database, Pistacia Lentiscus. cosmileeurope.eu
Selection

Our retinol-like treatment

The Yon-Ka formula where the retinol-like complex is the signature active.

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