Ingredient Spotlight: Hyaluronic Acid

Ingredient Spotlight · Cosmetic Active

Hyaluronic Acid

Skin's natural sponge. Able to hold up to a thousand times its weight in water, hyaluronic acid plumps, smooths and restores skin's bounce.

The portrait of a molecule your skin makes on its own — and needs help preserving.

HydratingPlumpingSmoothingAnti-AgingRedensifying
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Common name
Hyaluronic acid, hyaluronan, HA.
INCI name
Hyaluronic Acid; Sodium Hyaluronate (sodium salt, the most widely used form in cosmetics).
Family, type
Polysaccharide (glycosaminoglycan); humectant and plumping agent.
Found in nature
Naturally present in the dermis, joints and the vitreous humor of the eye; an adult body contains around 15 grams, half of it in the skin1.
How it's obtained
Biotechnology: bacterial fermentation of plant substrates, followed by purification. No animal origin in our formulas.
Typical concentration
From 0.1% to 2%, depending on the molecular weight and texture of the treatment.
Organoleptic properties
Appearance: white powder; in solution, a translucent, viscous gel; Odor: neutral.
Physical characteristics
Water-soluble; available in high molecular weight (surface hydrating film) and low molecular weight (penetrates the epidermis)2,3; Comedogenic rating: 0.
Benefits
Hydrating, plumping, smoothing, restructuring, redensifying, soothing.
Cosmetic indications
All skin types, especially dehydrated skin, skin marked by dehydration lines or early signs of slackening. Suitable for sensitive skin.

Did you know?A little history

Hyaluronic acid was first isolated in 1934 from the vitreous humor of a cow's eye by two biochemists at Columbia University, Karl Meyer and John Palmer.

Its name comes from the Greek hyalos, meaning "glass," a nod to the transparency of the gel it forms. It wasn't until the 1990s that biotechnology made it possible to produce it through fermentation, with no animal origin, turning it into one of the most widely used hydrating actives in cosmetics.

Our skin naturally produces it, but that production declines with age: by 50, the dermis holds roughly half as much as it did at 201. Which is why it helps both to supply more of it and to support what skin still makes on its own.

General useHyaluronic acid in the body

In the dermis, hyaluronic acid fills the space between collagen and elastin fibers. It holds water there, maintains tissue volume and elasticity, and facilitates exchanges between cells1. In joints, it lubricates cartilage; in the eye, it maintains the shape of the eyeball.

Its lifespan is very short: skin continuously renews it, which makes it sensitive to anything that slows that production — UV, smoking, pollution, aging.

In aesthetic medicine, cross-linked hyaluronic acid is injected to fill wrinkles. In cosmetics, it acts at the surface and within the epidermis: not the same effect, but usable every day, with no invasive step.

Cosmetic useIts properties on skin

  • HydratingA powerful humectant, it captures water and holds it at the surface and within the epidermis, for immediate and lasting hydration2.
  • PlumpingBy absorbing water, it restores volume to tissue: skin looks more supple, dehydration lines soften3.
  • SmoothingThe high molecular weight form creates a flexible surface film that smooths skin texture and shields against dehydration.
  • RedensifyingThe low molecular weight form penetrates the epidermis and supports skin's natural restructuring mechanisms2,3.
  • SoothingIts hydrating film reduces the tight, uncomfortable feeling of sensitive or fragile skin.
  • UniversalNon-comedogenic and very well tolerated, it suits every skin type, including oily or reactive skin.

FormulationThe forms of hyaluronic acid used at Yon-Ka

Molecule size changes everything. A high molecular weight hyaluronic acid stays at the surface and hydrates by forming a film; a low molecular weight form penetrates the epidermis and works more deeply2,3. Our formulas combine both.

High and low molecular weight

Hyaluronic Acid + Sodium Hyaluronate

The heart of the Hydra N°1 line: combining both molecule sizes for surface hydration and restructuring action within the epidermis.

Hydra N°1 Creme · Hydra N°1 Fluid · Hydra N°1 Serum · Le Contour – Excellence Code

Sodium Hyaluronate

Sodium salt of hyaluronic acid

The most stable, most soluble form, used as a hydrating and plumping active in our eye contour, firming and renewing treatments.

Key active in: Alpha-Contour · Le Masque – Excellence Code
Also found in: Advanced Optimizer Serum · Advanced Optimizer Creme · Time Resist Jour · Time Resist Nuit · Nude Perfect Fluide · La Crème – Excellence Code

In cosmeticsUses

  • Concentrated hydrating serums, applied under your cream;
  • Day and night creams and fluids;
  • Plumping masks for an instant glow boost;
  • Smoothing eye contours;
  • Redensifying anti-aging treatments.

The Yon-Ka approach

We never use hyaluronic acid alone. In the Hydra N°1 line, it's paired with imperata cylindrica, a desert plant that extends hydration, and organic aloe vera, which soothes. In Excellence Code, it's joined by cyperus and white lupin. The benchmark molecule, boosted by the plant.

The science of the active, the sensoriality of the plant.

How to useAdding it to your ritual

  1. On damp skin
    Hyaluronic acid captures the water available: apply your serum right after your toner, while skin is still damp.
  2. Seal it in
    Follow with a cream: it keeps the captured water from evaporating and extends the plumping effect.
  3. Morning and night
    With no contraindication, it's used year-round and pairs with every other active, vitamin C and fruit acids included.

Good to knowHow to store it

Stable and only mildly light-sensitive, hyaluronic acid keeps well. Simply keep your bottle closed and follow the period-after-opening guidance.

It's identical to what skin produces naturally, which explains its excellent tolerance: no known contraindication for topical use, including during pregnancy and breastfeeding, and it suits sensitive skin4. A tip for very dry climates: never apply it alone without a cream on top, or it could draw water from your skin instead of the air.

Go furtherSources

  1. Papakonstantinou E., Roth M., Karakiulakis G. Hyaluronic acid: A key molecule in skin aging. Dermato-Endocrinology, 2012; 4(3): 253-258. PubMed
  2. Bukhari S.N.A. et al. Hyaluronic acid, a promising skin rejuvenating biomedicine: A review of recent updates and pre-clinical and clinical investigations on cosmetic and nutricosmetic effects. International Journal of Biological Macromolecules, 2018; 120: 1682-1695. PubMed
  3. Pavicic T. et al. Efficacy of cream-based novel formulations of hyaluronic acid of different molecular weights in anti-wrinkle treatment. Journal of Drugs in Dermatology, 2011; 10(9): 990-1000. PubMed
  4. COSMILE Europe (Cosmetics Europe), ingredient database, Sodium Hyaluronate. cosmileeurope.eu
Selection

Our hyaluronic acid treatments

The Yon-Ka formulas where hyaluronic acid is a key ingredient.

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